Not starting - ignition?

[SVT10th]

anyone have any thoughts on this issue?

I went to start the GT the other day (1990, w/Auto) and it wouldn't start.

When I first got in the car and turned the key to "ON" the radio started and dash lit up, but then when I turned to START, everything stopped. Now in all key positions there is nothing. No radio, no headlights, no clicking from the solenoid. The only thing that seems to work is the map light. (probably because it's hot all the time, not dependent on ignition switch position) Battery appears to be fully charged. (according to my charger) And it's pretty new.

I'm thinking bad ignition switch. How do you test it?

Any other possibilities?

[390gtconv]

Headlights NOT on ign switch. There is (I'll call it) ign module mounted on steering column just below ign key switch. Ford had problems with these and some burnt up. It's what connects all the power to whatever your key position is set to. I've replaced them before. Plus did one on PFH car. FYI I do have a complete 89/90 steering column out and for sale on Craigs list if you wanna see what I'm talking about. Also have spare ign module IF that's your problem.

But what's odd is you have NO headlights. I'd use meter to verify voltage at solenoid first. Let me know.

[ToplessPony94]

Any clicking from the starter solenoid? If you want to borrow it, I have a charger with the ability to load test a battery just to be sure. The ignition switch would need to be removed to test the switch. It's not hard to do, but as I remember you have to take the steering column trim off to get at it. You probably know this, but the ignition switch in a separate module from the ignition key cylinder - it's just operated by the cylinder. Let me know if you want a hand.

[whtmare]

Sounds like the battery Jim.

[KARMAN]

Sounds like the battery Jim.
I had a corroded battery cable that had those symptoms.

[SVT10th]

Headlights NOT on ign switch. There is (I'll call it) ign module mounted on steering column just below ign key switch. Ford had problems with these and some burnt up. It's what connects all the power to whatever your key position is set to. I've replaced them before. Plus did one on PFH car. FYI I do have a complete 89/90 steering column out and for sale on Craigs list if you wanna see what I'm talking about. Also have spare ign module IF that's your problem.

But what's odd is you have NO headlights. I'd use meter to verify voltage at solenoid first. Let me know.

I'll check the voltages first, but I might take you up on the module.



I had a corroded battery cable that had those symptoms.
It does have the world's crappiest battery cables. (Both RED, wrong lengths and terminal ends are too big -- a previous owner was a bit of a hack.....)

[whtmare]

I'd just throw a battery on it from another one of your cars. Trouble shoot the easiest stuff first it really does seem like the battery or cables.

[SVT10th]

Ok. Messed around the car for about 30 minutes today. Here's my findings.

- Battery is new (June). Was on charger for most of day Sunday. Charger indicated full charge. Battery showed no signs of getting weak before this problem - car started at a touch of the key. (Easier than the Cobra actually)
-Checked battery cables -- connections are tight
-Battery shows 12 v on my voltmeter - but I was alone, so no way of seeing if/how much it dropped when I turned the ignition switch.
-Attempted jump start from another car, no joy.
-I did notice that my map light (LED not bulb) would light very dimly with ignition OFF, but would go out at any other key position.

So, it seems that some current is getting to (at least) the non-switched electronics, but not enough to power anything. Still no clicks from anything under the hood.

Baffled.

[390gtconv]

Since you said before batt cables from previous owner not the best, and i know you checked connections at the batt, check the other end of neg ground cable at the block.You could also (using one half of jumper cable) go from batt neg to a good grounding spot somewhere else on block just to rule out your neg cable & connection. Also maybe take off and clean positive connections on the solenoid. They maybe tight be not clean.
Let me know

[KARMAN]

The cable I mentioned looked reasonable (but old) and well connected.
It corroded inside the insulation where I couldn't see (I think it was near the connector).
When I replaced the cable, that old 351 Windsor fired right up.:)

[SVT10th]

Hooray!
It lives......

It was a bad ground... I actually found it before replacing the cables. (Which was handy, 'cause then I could move the car to my driveway to replace the cables, rather than lying on the lawn where the GT normally lives.)
But the cables were junk. Now I have a nice new set of (ungodly expensive!) Ford cables -- And I could swear the car starts better and sounds[I] better... but it's probably in my head.
One comment though -- what F^&*&&^%$ Ford engineer put the negative cable to the [I]bottom of the engine block? What a pain in the ass.

And finally (since my Chiltons guide hasn't arrived yet) -- anyone know what the green cable with the inline fuseable link attached to the positive side of the ignition relay is for? I noticed that the insulation is worn away and the wires are corroding -- I wrapped it up with electrical tape for now.....